Terry Brewer and Parker Martin may be first time restauranteurs, but no customer will notice even on the first day of official grand opening.

First & Hope Bar

From the wall texture emulating patterns of distant spot lights, to the water vessel etched with First & Hope’s insignia, to the muted retro chic decor accompanied by servers in crisp waistcoats and waitresses in designer cocktail dresses, no detail was unscrutinized in this eye-popping restaurant situated in a pedestrian-bare corner immediately “behind” the Disney Concert Hall. No surface texture is duplicated between the floor (textured porcelain to prevent waitresses in high heels from falling), the back of the banquets, the actual seat, the back pillow, the upholestry of the chair, the napkin, and the place mat. Here, before even sitting, is a classic case of perception overload, but it’s all cool, very cool. Topping all that off is bar lighting that rotates between fuscia and cool blue.

The chef, Shelly Cooper (via Florida and S. Carolina), last worked as an executive chef of a country club, in a is deeply entrenched in Southern “local” cooking. This translates to fried chicken, fried oysters, fried green tomatoes, grits, pot pies, and, way from the left field, a dish called “duck, duck, goose”. There is no pun un-used on the menu which is full of low-brow, high-brow mashups (think “Mac & cheese Flight”, “Praise the Lard”).

IMG_1132First & First Amuse: Twice baked Potato

While there may have been a public complaint about the small portion (skip the popcorn shrimp – singular), and the oily food, it’s hard not to fall for corn meal fried green tomatoes served with a side of “Goddess Sauce” – sour cream whipped with taragon, thyme and many other spices, as well the Pimento cheese (chef last worked in S. Carolina) amuse served with home-made crackers. The house is so obviously proud of every dish being produced on plant that even the menu indicates this fact. Beyond all that, First & Hope has a very strong online “presence”, as seen by the barrage of shillers on both Eater LA, Grubstreet, Yelp, and even Urbanspoon.

First & Hope Nenaw's Fried Chicken Basket

The kitchen, during soft opening, has been accommodating, and rightfully so at the prices being commanded by the dishes. For the fantastic buttermilk fried chicken served in a metal “picnic” basket, I was able to sub in the delicious apple/fennel salad (you know, because the carbs in the potato salad is bad!). Sides were served as apps, apps were served as mains, people split a “big” for 2, etc.

First & Hope really deserves accolades for the actual existence of bones in the de-spined trout with lump crab spilling out ala Queen Alien birthing from Ripley. The entire fish, head and tail on, is deboned, then reassembled, belly prostrate, to evoke a still swimming wish, again, spilling out the guts of lump crab like volcano. As one digs further into the fish, it’s inevitable to find tiny bones that escaped the poissonnier’s tweezer. The entire experience brings sanity back to seafood, unlike the uber manipulated fish dishes of say, Water Grill.

First & Hope whole trout suffed with lump crab

Not sure how many diners are ordering this, but I find it inspiring.

Every supper starts off with pimento cheese and house made crackers. As Angelenos, this may not seem a great bread service at first, but as every Columbian knows, pimento cheese is the only cheese that matters. Same cheese seems to be used in the burger as well, and … well, let’s save the burger dissection for another day.

First & Hope Pimento Cheese with House-made Crackers First & State Burger (chorizo with fried green tomato, pimento cheese)

Then there’s the ridiculous mac & cheese flight (3 varietals) served on a weighty granite slat. Akin to cube, cheese type (but not origin) is scribbled onto the slate via chalk. Except here, in front of the drawn cheese descriptions, there is more cheese, and more accoutrement! The slate of 3 ramekins represents the marriage of Cube’s cheese bar and Cube’s mac & cheese. Life may not get better. The current selection, from left to right: “Marin Triple Cream Brie, Lasagnette & California Almond, Cypress Grove Goat Cheese, Mini Shells & Popped Corn, Porter Beer Cheese, Corkscrew Pasta, Rye Croutons”. For the triple cream brie, a Californian honey of beyond floral quality was matched, and the crushed, salty, rye crouton on top of porter beer cheese presented a contrasting texture versus the thick yeasty mac. Best order of operation for this dish definitely goes from left to right.

First & Hope Cheese FlightFirst & Hope Cheese Flight Triple Cream BrieFirst & Hope Mac & Cheese FlightFirst & Hope Mac & Cheese Flight Porter Cheese

Clearly this kitchen is still reaching for that smooth rhythm; one day the fried chicken lacked sodium, another it was over-brined. The burger’s bun (produced in-house, natch) is crumbly – not dry, just crumply – and caused a very expensive disaster. Random logs in the sweet potato stack were undercooked. For the philharmonic-loving set though, this is instantly the best alternative. For the rest of the town who hates $5 parking (street parking during event days is non-existent), patiently wait for the kitchen to marry the built-out, for there are gems to be had, oil be damned.

First & Hope

http://www.firstandhope.com
710 West 1st Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012-2442
(213) 617-8555

First & Hope on Urbanspoon

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  • http://www.weezermonkey.com weezermonkey

    Niiiiice. I like how I rely on you to explore my neighborhood before I do.
    .-= weezermonkey´s last blog ..This Old Fogey Finally Tries Kogi =-.

  • http://www.thetruckchaser.com Kelley

    Love it! The presentation looks awesome. Not sure how I would feel eating out of the belly of that fish though!

  • http://dianatakesabite.blogspot.com/ Diana

    So, in other words, get the mac and cheese. :)

    Okay, I can dig that.
    .-= Diana´s last blog ..Kale w/ Spicy Peanut Dressing: Score one for the taste buds — and the body =-.

  • Hadley

    I was impressed beyond expectations by First & Hope. The only thing that didn’t impress me was the whole chicken, which was juicy but bland, and the triple cream brie’s pasta, which was dry. The porter mac blew my mind.

  • TonyC

    Echoing Hadley’s sentiments, F&H was beyond expectation. So much so we visited 3 times in 2 weeks (and dropped an ark load of cash). They will start brunch service shortly, and apparently the duck breast sandwich is fantastic as well.

  • http://www.foodfashionista.com Mika Takeuchi/ Food Fashionista

    Enjoyed the space and vibe of F&H, and also like the tenderloin salad and a couple other dishes. Look forward to trying the fried chicken…

  • http://theroamingbelly.blogspot.com bagnatic

    oh my…the cheeeeeeeese. *drool*
    .-= bagnatic´s last blog ..kob kun kaa to nakkara on beverly =-.

  • http://thehungryhungryhungryhippo.blogspot.com/ The Hungry Hippo

    mac & cheese flight? i just might have to go for that…
    .-= The Hungry Hippo´s last blog ..World Fare =-.

  • Claudia

    I must go and get my cheese on!

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    The whole family likes to celebrate special occasions. However, many small details that must be taken into account when preparing for a special occasion. In this article, you’ll find tips and techniques that can greatly help in preparing. More information visit http://www.mypersonalizednapkins.com


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