Cap of Ribeye, spinalis dorsi, heavily marbled muscle running around the outside of a center-cut ribeye steak, ribeye cap. A rolled piece of ribeye cap looks something like this:
[Rolled Ribeye Cap, By Ideas in Food]
Yelping the phrase yields 5 restaurants in LA known to serve this specific cut of beef, 1 of which is Totoraku, the Japanese yaki house of beef with the $180 price tag. Another place in LA to get some of the cap action seems to be Picca, where a rather generous chunk [read: 32 ounces / 2 pounds] of beautifully crusted ribeye (seemed to include part of the cap, IIRC…) runs about $70 and a few quarters.
Where is this piece of fawning going? mar’sel Restaurant, in the Terranea Resort, tucked away in a part of the Southbay where radio signals don’t shine, has a grilled Wagyu (sometimes from the famed Mishima Ranch) ribeye cap that may be the finest piece of beef in Los Angeles. There are still 23 days left this year, better fill up the tank now, and ask if Chef Michael Fiorelli is in the house. His version is presented below:
There’s a wee bit of presentation and plating, but they’re unobstrusive, as are the accompanying roasted young carrots & golden raisins. Am I a regular at CUT/Mastro’s? Not necessarily. But someone should let Chef Lett know he’s1 not the only gent in the kitchen who knows how to get the hell “out of the way” of ” best quality products humanly possible”. And hey OHAI, waiters at mar’sel? Not actors, and super nice! What a concept. Maybe we should all visit resorts more often.
The slightly septuagenarian room (after all, this is Southbay, not WeHo) may evoke a desire to order the proverbial surf & steak. Alas, it’s not on the menu; but to create the combination, one can simply turo-turo at the branzino to create a contemporary sea-land dinner for 2 here at mar’sel. Everyone’s doing branzinos these days — EVERYONE, but not everyone’s touching up the Mediterranean seabass with lemon confit, sunchoke puree and “soft” kale. The lemon confit just overwhelmed me, and not only because I was basking in mar’sel’s view, as the balcony was already pitch dark by dinner time.
Can’t afford the thirty dollar mains after treating the missus to the Terranea spa? It’s absolutely possible to make a meal out of affordable starters. Witness the young’un beets ($14) + grilled Spanish octopus with chorizo (from La Espanola, a very local purveyor) ($16) + the rather balanced orecchiette en brodo with lamb sausage ($13) + charcuterie plate:
It’s worth mentioning Chef Fiorelli (ahem, who definitely works out, and is single) drives everyday from the Westside to helm mar’sel’s kitchen, and one of his recipes is in the new Cart For A Cause Cookbook.. Now won’t you please make the drive down to Rancho Palos Verdes? Just remember to bring you ipod.
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