Well of course Ktown’s most interesting restaurant isn’t Korean.

All’Angolo is the Mid-town black sheep child of Amarone in West Hollywood. I’ve never been to Amarone. Lord knows I’ve tried though, several times. All’Angolo, nearly a year old now, is like the red sauce Italian joint which is on every corner in Brooklyn, except it’s not. There are hardly red sauced dishes on the menu. And if you actually ask for the red sauce, they’ll charge you a $1.

Various pastas are typically $8. None is house made, but they’re à la minute and comforting, even to a carbophobe. The specials don’t rotate that often, but enough (quarterly) to bring irregulars back for more. The orecchiette with chicken sausage and peas is satisfying, but the fried ravioli was a bore, as was the lackluster milanesa which wholly resembled tonkatsu. Even a mundane meat entree is always accompanied by a glisteing, pleasing, simple salad with not a leaf of Iceberg in sight.

According to the managers, majority of AA’s Ktown clientele (actually consisting of Koreans, not hipsters) order pizzas to go. But one should skip the pizza carrying the oyster cracker crust. It’s no better than Chicken & Pizza Love Letter. Actually, it is better than Chicken & Pizza Love Letter, but is that saying much at all? Ktown is far too close to Olio‘s to suffer a nasty pie. A simple insalata del contadino, followed by a (salty) strozzapreti alla Trentina is a perfectly luxurious Italian meal for one when matched to a (lousy Italian beer of) Peroni. It beats a bowl of $10 naem myeon all day, every day, for as long as the kingdom of Hangook will exist.

All’Angolo on Menupages
All' Angolo Pizza & Pasta on Urbanspoon

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