More from Boyle Heights: Los Poblanos Cemitas, Mariscos el Aeropuerto
Since the last decade, Boyle Heights has been repeatedly labeled a “food desert” (mostly, and probably, by white people). Its citizens are portrayed as sad saps with no access to good/healthy food options. Last summer, there was a piece on CoLab Radio on The Market Make-over campaign which attempted to transform corner bodegas into healthy fresh food outlets. Earlier last March, KCRW followed up on the stores’ changes during a Which Way LA episode. In the mean time, this little piggy chased cemitas and mariscos truck up and down Olympic, Caesar Chavez, 1st St and 3rd St.
It’s been well over a year since I wrote about Ricos Marisco on LosanJealous.com. I still like that truck a whole bunch, but sometimes you just don’t want fried stuff. Recently, thanks to the hot weather, I’ve reverted back to ceviche and agua chiles. Typically, the choices are: 4 Vientos, Marisco Jato if I want big portions, and Mariscos Jalisco if a Westsider insists on a icky tacos dorados camaron. All these restaurants and trucks are in Boyle Heights and East LA. Food desert? Or food dessert? Are the public health gurus smoking crack? Do they not know there is a El Super smack dab in the middle of Boyle Heights? And they carry a fantastic line up of fresh vegetables, fruits and raw ingredients?
How can a food desert have such brilliant bites? Witness Los Poblanos Cemitas: http://www.yelp.com/biz/los-poblanos-los-angeles-2#hrid:I-cKWmwHN0wPm8Vl9FCGXA . I found this joint on Yelp, (yes, damnit, Yelp) while browsing for cemitas de pierna. Some (presumed) Mexican issued a Yelp manifesto proclaiming Los Poblanos to have the ONLY legit Pueblan cemitas with a proper sliced pork shoulder, instead of the more commonly found pierna enchilada (shredded). Meanwhile, Warren Olney is still debating how much does Boyle Heights really suck for hungry chubs. After a 5 minute wait, what comes out of the Los Poblanos Cemitas truck is a round pile of heaven, and easily one the top 5 sandwiches in LA (Bludso’s pulled pork on white bread, Roma’s Italian, banh mi nem nuong at Baguette City, #10 at Langer’s).
The pork shoulder here is roasted and lightly sauced. It’s sliced a bit thinner than Langer’s pastrami, but much thicker than the typical, gross, fried milanesa steak. The stuffings in the sandwich is always a few roasted halved chipotle peppers, dry Oaxacan white string cheese, and avocados. If you ask, they will toss in extra papalo leaves. If you enjoy arugula in your burgers (I do), then definitely get extra papalo. If you hate herbs like cilantro, well.. stay away. The lightly toasted bun is much fluffier than tortas buns, and far less hearty than the bun found at Tepeaca. It’d make a splendid burger bun, and is one of the few Mexican style breads that I’ve ever actually enjoyed.
It’s worth mentioning this frisbee-sized cemitas is FIVE DOLLARS and they’re in cahoots with an empty store front so there are actual “dine-in” seating available. I don’t know it’ll make you hollah, but I was beside myself with excitement when the plate arrived.
Los Poblanos Cemitas
3520 Whittier Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90023
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Mariscos el Aeropuerto
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