Why? Public inebriation without recrimination. (It took me three hours to come up with that. So sad; can’t write).
Title is a bit misleading — I rather enjoy Corner Door in the same way I really enjoyed Waterloo & City. Both are no-frills neighborhood pubs with decent Continental food made from farmers market sourced ingredients. Both have happy hour, both have thoughtful cocktails. Golden Road, on the other hand, is purely a beer hall, as I’ve actually never had a happy “food” thought here in 2012. The half vegan cooking is still befuddling, as is the Father’s Office bar ordering service. There’s obviously a new chef in place, but I still can not find any beer pairing snacks worthy of the price on this menu.
That said, Golden Road’s fantastic because of the plastiky, grassy patio, and because of the instant familiar ease. As long as there’s a designated driver among the party, the bar keeps will serve you pint after pint of good regional brewski. Prices are cheap, but there’s a giant connect four on the side “lawn” for the runts. And there are plenty of devil spawns every night, especially early on Saturdays and Sundays. Come late enough, or early enough, on the weekends, and it’s feasible to avoid both the Northeast beer geeks and the local sports aficonianos. Fear not, despite the lack of both types of customers, the beer hall can still be lively, with only beer chuggers feared most by baby eaters remain. The existence of both Golden Road Pub and Pitfire Fairfax tell us this: your mom forgot to warn you parenthood comes with alcoholism, and there are at least three (including Corner Door) places in L.A. where one cans simultaneously practice both with unholy impunity.
Corner Door is a whole ‘nother story. It’s loud, it’s dark, there’s a $5 Old Fashioned happy hour on Sundays (when some Westside restaurants are running Sunday “family suppers). This is outwardly a offspring killing corner bar that happens to serve food. But there lies the key point: it has to serve food because it’s carrying a type 47 license. You can stroll up, in a massive Baby Jogger no less, and no one would flinch here. They might not have any high chairs (ditto to The Parish), but this is Culver City, where apparently some children do live, versus downtown, where apparently only restaurateurs and accountants roam. A misplaced toddler may be spotted playing on Corner Doors outside window sill, and hell, you might just be tempted to flash her a big smile, and rock a lil queen’s wave as she peers into the pub looking for Beau du Bois. The restaurant gets packed even early during the week, so the bar, early at opening, might be the better place to rock that happy hour menu. An adroit mom may even be able to holster her baby girl in a Moby Wrap while sipping on a $6 martini. No one would judge here. Next up at the Corner Door is a slight menu progression, with the chef Luke Reyes producing a single farmers market vegetable focused prix fixe menus on Mondays. Last week, it was beets.
- « Shellback Mulled Apple Cider and Christmas Gift Card Giveaway to Public School 310
- » Happy Food Thoughts ’12 #6: Taste of The Island, USC-adjacent