One bowl, one chance at glory. That’s usually how beef noodle soup tastings go. Sometimes you’re ambivalent, sometimes you know right away. With Remy’s, you know right away. Just like Peruvians in LA, Thais in LA, Israelis in LA, etc., Taiwanesers will no doubt be dubious when they see Remy’s chose to pirate the name of a rather famous (Lao Chang’s) noodle shop. Cest la vie man. Sony copied the cassette player, Veedub ripped off Benz’s cars. And now Sony is basically in the shitter. Improve or die.
Remy’s offers a 5-spiced beef noodle soup broth base, jazzed up with a bit of sweet soy, some do ban (fermented soy bean, but not completely mashed like gochujang), and a powerful drizzle of chili oil. Every requisite condiment & accoutrement for “my” rendition of a good niu rou mian is on the roll call: pickled mustard green, Taiwanese cabbage, cilantro. That day, I ordered the bowl spicy, otherwise, I’d ask for a dash of white pepper powder. Surely, Remy being as legitimate as can be, would have that as well. The beef offers a bit of a resistive chew; these days, it’s fine. Seeing tubs of mush being produced at home makes me desire “tenderness” no more. The final product carries a hefty portion of saltiness, but no MSG. Whatever that means.
Noodles are not made in-house. But unlike a $18 plate of taglietelle at Gusto, this should bother no one when Remy merely asks $8 for what constitutes as a complete meal. They’re thick, like a girthier soba, not like udon, unlike spaghetti, and unlike the traditional thin strand egg noodles served with wonton noodle soup. They’re definitely not the flat dried Chinese wheat noodles so popular at Shanghainese restaurants. Per the rumor mill, Remy uses fresh noodle cut to their liking. Who knows. These almost squared beams of wheat noodles provide enough flour to fight the sogginess caused by the soup soak. Dig it.
This is LA’s most provocative bowl of Taiwanese beef noodle soup right, save for the bowl at my house. $8, comes in at least 3 mixtures of beef (tendon, shank/tendon, shank only), and 2 variets of noodles (the squarish, vs wide), and a side of non-spicy pickled mustard greens. Ask for plenty of water. Salt is free.
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