Los Angeles Magazine has a write up on Gorge in next month’s issue titled “French Kiss”. LA Mag is still trying to sell rags, so they don’t publish their entire issue online — good on them — so there’s no link available to Patrick Kuh’s review. The other piece of critical “review” on Gorge is a three sentence blurb by S.I.V. to be found here.
Gorge deserves a bit more than that. Gorge deserves more patrons so sexy pastry chef (is there such a thing as an unsexy pastry chef?) Uyen Nguyen can expand the paltry dessert menu beyond St. Honores. Please, go visit Gorge, because there is no restaurant in Los Angeles currently being helmed by a ex-Robuchon sous-chef, offering a Basque inspired brandade special this delicious. None. Let’s not forget the flexible wine service offered by Master sommelier Darius Allyn, previously wine director at Montage Beverly Hills. On the flipside, for brunch on Saturday, a bottle of Normandie cidre is available for teens to go with a splendid club sandwich made of house sausage and a perfectly Frenchy poached egg. French wine at dinner, cidre at brunch, sausage all day, and funky poached mackerel that everyone should want to eat over raw bluefin.
The compact savory menu is dominated by charcuterie in every section save for the salads. The salads are balanced fares of acid, oil and sugar, and easily transition from brunch to dinner. There are Toulousse, duck, and German “beer” sausages under the mains, and if the correct one is chosen, a Robuchon potato puree will magically arrive as a carb side on the same plate. But the best thing of all may be the pig ear terrine and head cheese; the head cheese is chunky, not too fatty, reasonably spiced, and pairs perfectly with the pickled romanesco that arrives on the charcuterie plates. There is but only one slight quibble: the grilled bread service borders stingy, but is so pertinent to the wine & charcuterie menu center piece. One can only hope beyond the sausage and terrines, Gorge will continue to expand its entrees into all things warm and braised (but please, not more beef bourguignon).
No Pollacked food on a plate tagged with absurd synecdoches to be found here, just an unpublicized, undercapitalized, tin ceiled bistro with a menu full of French loveliness. You don’t even need a reservation, nor suffer a mysterious waitlist, nor endure an amalgam of random foodies at a communal table to eat at Gorge right now. Somehow, despite participating in the DineLA program, they’ve been completely glossed over for yet another rather ridiculous take on tea leaf salad.
They just ask you to be understanding concerning the name.
917 West Sunset Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA
Loteria is also running the DineLA program at all of its four branch. For $35, a soup/app, a main and a dessert are offered. The best seller from the main course has been the cast iron baked-in enchilada. It’s a fusiony Mexican mac and cheese served with generous huitlacoche, and will slaughter the appetite after five bites. The effect seems to be purposeful as everyone promptly pushes aside the
mac & cheese enchilada thus allowing room for dessert.
The winners through out this Dine LA dinner tasting are the creme de chile poblano soup, the cheese enchilada in mole poblano which arrived with the fillet mignon, and the Michoacán mole verde of the chicken breast, as well as each and every teaspoon of huitlacoche con queso mixture found in the mushroom and fungus “cazuela de enchilada”.
While the $35 per person price tag may seem high to some, remember this: unwilling to pay for ethnic food is racist, and Hollywood is a helluva lot closer than Sun Valley or Bell, or, god forbid, San Gabriel, especially if cocktails are to be consumed.
6627 Hollywood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA
And of course, the standard best option Dine LA dinner remains: Craft. Craft. Craft.
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