Fuoco recently opened in the “Downtown Fullerton” district. A gentle reminder: this is basically the corner where Fullerton PD beat a schizophrenic homeless man to death in 2011. I’ve had run-ins with Fullerton PD “back in the days”. Yes, me, the nicest restaurant blogger around these blocks, please don’t taze me bro.
Watch this Vimeo on Fuoco and tell me you’re not a believer:
What I want to say first is this: “Dear Ceccarellis, CALL ME IF YOU GUYS WANT TO SHIP IN ANOTHER OVEN FROM NAPOLI FOR YOUR SECOND BRANCH. I’m sure you overpaid shipping that oven in a 1×20′. It doesn’t have to be this way. We can crate it and get it into either a RO/RO situation, or just consolidate it into a 40HQ into Long Beach. Seriously, I’ll make it happen.”
Secondly, Fuoco is VPN’d. I know it doesn’t mean much these days, especially in America, but Bollini’s lost its VPN cert, and it seems to somehow correlate with quality. Being VPN here at Il Fuoco means the flour/sauce are all Italian, and it carries the connation of an extremely wet pie center because the pizza is barely fired for a minute or so. If this style isn’t your liking, if you refuse to eat pizza with a knife, don’t bother. Thirdly, you can get anchovies on a Neapolitan pie — a Roman Neapolitan pie. The olives that come with the anchovies were canned, and hence salty beyond belief, but the situation can be rectified here. Request olive subtraction for a Roman “pizza Napoletana” in Los Angeles. [ Drop keyboard , walk away ]
Pro tip: Unlike Motherfucking Dough, Fuoco will slice your pizza, like Domino’s.
Downtown Fullerton, parking in the NE corner.
Wildcraft was written up on LA Weekly less than a week ago. You snooze, you lose. It claims itself to be a Neapolitan pie because the staff was trained at VPN in LA. It’s not a Neapolitan pizza even if it’s a has a Ferrara oven. Putting it against Mother Dough and Fuoco’s pizza will reveal all the non-Neapolitan-ness of a Wildcraft pizza. A) It’s cooked in the oven far too long B) It’s not moist in the middle (that’s what she said) C) It’s far too chewy, far too thick. All this doesn’t mean it’s not a good pie. It’s a beyond solid pie, ranking only a bit under Stella Barra, Settebello, and Fuoco. Why? Because of the ingredients. Beyond of the “OG” margherita pizza, the toppings reads like a bromance novel: sausage, spicy peppers, meat balls, “carnage”, and “clam and pork” (a supremely traif pizza waiting for a good double entendre). The sourdough cornichon is very enjoyable, and women who love bread (redundant, I know) should love the bready slices. Personally, the assemblage of the “carbonara” pie makes me sick with disgust.
Here, aim for the least heavy-handed pizzas and you will walk away satiated, if not euphoric. And seriously, white truffle oil? Is Hermosa Beach still into that kind a of culinary faux pas? I think not.