To make sure I do this Compton restaurant justice, I visited 3 times during April/May before even contemplating a write up.

Let there be no doubt, this restaurant is as soulful as it gets. Ella Mae was the grand dame of the family. Any restaurant named after the cooking grandma’s got soul. It behoove us to visit neighborly restaurants such as Ella Mae’s and Bludso’s. And yes, the 2 restaurants know each other. That’s how they roll in Compton.

Ella Mae’s was founded around May of ‘08. I started visiting approximately a month before they 1 year anniversary. Shirley’s daughters man the front of the house, which consists of a long stainless table used for Sunday brunch buffets which they host.

The room, while spartan, is extremely large and airy by Compton standard. If Bludo’s Preservation Hall, Ella Mae’s Taj Mahal. Entire establishment is clean, with quaint hip hop / R&B playing, and a separate room where the kitchen is located, and a room from which the food is served. It’s hard to describe. Kinda reminds me of the dining hall-esque restaurants in Southside of Chicago. See pix below.

Shirley said she wants to feed the local residents healthy food, hence there are turkey burgers and vegetarian “meat” loaf on the menu. Do not expect chic farmers market menu here, but do expect a rich butter laden peach cobbler the size of your palm. It’s an unbeatable sugary value. Prices are comparable to sit down restaurants nearby, but with semi-cafeteria order style, tipping seems to be abandoned.

While the shrimp potatoes are highly touted on Yelp, they weren’t mentioned on any menu during my April-May visits. I liked the turkey meatloaf, and the fried chix was quite nice. Is it earth shattering cuisine? Absolutely not. Would I support this local business if I resided in the 90220? Definitely yes. Now maybe they can send some of their cornbread over to Bludso’s down the street… I’d kill two birds and save some gas.

Ella Mae’s
515 West Compton Blvd
Compton, CA 90220

vs.

A North vs. South battle of fried chickens: Dinah’s (since 1963) from the North and Honey’s Kettle from the South. Dinah’s, manned by Hispanic workers, Honey’s by Compton locals.

Both has a small-ish dining room but Honey’s got bullet proof glass. Winner: Honey’s.

Honey’s, representing the South, has crust that is thicker and crunchier, as if made from say.. perhaps.. a corn starch wet batter. Dinah’s skin, representing the North, has a plainer version of dusted flour(?). Think the difference between KFC’s original recipe vs. extra crispy, except Honey’s extra crunchy skin doesn’t destroy the roof of your mouth, which is probably a bonus whether you’re eating in or munching away as you take in some PartyPoker (http://www.partypoker.com/) without worrying whether or not you’ll lose the power of speech after you’re done chowing down. Winner: Honey’s. Winner: Honey’s.

Taste: Dinah’s skin+crust has more spices than Honey’s for sure. But as far as chicken flesh itself, it’s a close DRAW. Of course this is only based on comparisons of dark meet. White meat is for… not me.

Texture/Juices/Temperature/Misc. Nota bene: both orders were sold as take-but, but were eaten at the restaurant/vicinitiesoutside bench. I am NOT taking fried chicken on a 45 min jaunt like this fella . Dinah’s a bit juicier, Honey’s pieces are hotter. Neither are Jidori/Vikon birds, OBVIOUSLY, but neither were tough old hens. But both orders apparently came from under the heat lamp as they were filled within 5 minutes of ordering. DRAW

Pix of Dinah’s, Glendale, CA:

Greasiness: by far, Honey’s greasier. An LAist article reveal that Dinah’s, at least in Glendale, uses a pressurized deep fryer, basically a generic Broadster’s fryer. pressurized deep fryer also explains Dinah’s juicier chicken. Dinah’s FTW

Condiments: You get real honey with Honey’s. You get ketchup with Dinah’s. Sweet sliced pickles are available at Honey’s in Compton for $.25. Winner by yards: Honey’s

Environs: Honey’s is in Compton. Dinah’s in Glendale. uhhh.. do i have to explain myself here? Honey’s all the effin way, even if Dinah’s has lil chicken statuettes for decorations.

Pricing: Thighs are $1.39 at Honey’s, each piece of dark meet is $1.80 @ Dinah’s. Clear winnnnnaaar: Honey’s. Blogger’s note: Dinah’s kitchen erred to my favor that day and gave me 3 pieces even tho I only ordered 2, hence making the cost of chicken $1.20/piece

Pix of Honey’s Kettle, Compton, CA.

The second best cue in the great Compton area.

I’ve previously pumped and shilled Bludso’s BBQ here and here, now let me hype Nate’s Home BBQ of Compton, CA. First off, don’t get the beef brisket. Second off, their telephone number listed under is WRONG. So herewith is the CORRECT telephone number (and yes, it’s on my speed dial, in case it’s Monday and Bludso’s closed): 310-763-1970

Nate’s was owned/operated by Nate’s himself until his recent death. His wife has stepped up and since become the proprietor. According to Mr. Kevin Bludso, of Bludso’s BBQ, Nate’s father was a preacher with his own church before the venture went bad and he went on to open this BBQ joint back in the day. It seems safe to assume it was called Home Bar B Que, which later became Nate’s BBQ?

The rib tips here are much fattier than what’s found at Bludso’s. They’re chunked bigger, with less cartilage and severely more bone+marrow. Some folks like it like this. D&A – which I previous reported on yelp, also of Compton, makes it a wee bit like this.

Otherwise, the racks of pork ribs are smoked in outdoor barrel smokers (as is the standard for most of Compton) with mixed wood but… Wait til you see the size of the custom built-in indoor 15 foot long, 3′ wide barrel smoker. The top lid is so heavy it requires a counter-weighed pulley system to keep open. No shit. And yes, on a rare occassion, it’s still used.

The sauce here, reminds me of.. again, Bludso’s… Smooth, not too tangy, barely a hint of hotness, plenty of spices. It utilizes more corn syrup hence sticks a bit better on the meat, but no mater. Always sauce on the side for me. Tasted this way, the rib flesh nearly fall of the bone, have plenty of salt & pepper, plenty of smoke, shallow ring of deep-pink smoke ring, but lack the overall complexity of Bludso’s prep.

There is, much like all the BBQ shacks, no indoor seating. The restaurant’s lay-out is completely off with 2/3 of the old dining room fenced off by drapes and older smoking barrels lined up against the wall rendering the entire dining room table less. The smokers are 20 yards away in the middle of the parking lot against the fence and if you’re lucky, there will be 2 women manning the station pulling multiple duties from working the register to chopping the ribs to running the smokers outside.

Finally point, and this saddens me… prices are steep for all the smoked product, tho on Christmas Eve, throngs of Black folks came to pickup their smoked turkey. That is a testament to Nate’s Home BBQ’s reputation in the community. Remember: bring your own baking tray if you want your birds smoked here. Me? I still prefer duck.

Last summer (’07), LA Times published an article on Mdme Katherine Banks and the beloved restaurant she owned with her husband (until 1991).

In between chasing rib tips and other soul food, Naka’s was forgotten in the background; figured it ain’t going nowhere. Then I read a Yelp thread that went full f-tard, remembered a random burger joint mentioned in this Chowhound thread, and set forth on my red Italian iron steed while wearing green jacket (for the a total CYA effect ya know). As a point of reference, Naka’s Broiler is across Centennial High School:

The result? Holy mother of god.. how did I miss this place? You have your tasty burger shacks ala Mom’s, Master’s, The Burger Stand, Fred’s Downhome, etc, and then you have this: an actual ‘hood diner! Please note the usage of ‘hood, and not ‘ghetto. There is nothing ghetto about Naka’s. It’s a self-respecting joint. Mr. Fisher, who bought the place in ‘91, runs a tight/clean/neat ship. He brushes and wipes the broiler between grillin’ and the there’s nary a dribble of graffiti in the vicinity.

The cook is the “daddy” and the visiting diners are all “playahs”. You know some hip hop artist grew up eating Naka’s. You know the LA Riots didn’t touch Naka’s. It’s an institution. However! Some doofus decided to order a turkey burger with turkey bacon. Who does that! In Compton! Yes turkey burgers is the preferred ‘hood burger of choice but.. turkey bacon!#$@%@ Ugh!! My bad. Really. It’s a solid burger tho. Not spectacular ala Mom’s, but hand formed patty on a Wonderbread-esque bun, topped with crisp Iceberg, tomato, wayyyyy too much raw white onion and a wee bit of mayo.

A full breakfast menu is also served all day. And yes, you can sub turkey bacon for regular bacon with your eggs and grits…

Elsewhere I have railed against utilizing what I’d like to call the “mom factor” in culinary arguments, ie, my mom makes the best “***”, “for the best tamales, come to my mom’s house”, “I don’t eat at pho restaurants because I only like my mom’s”, etc.

Herewith, I shall discuss an institution that is the only exception to my “mom” rule: Mom’s Burger in Compton.

At Mom’s, you are tasting mom’s burgers. Mom’s the owner and Mom’s family has been operating this joint here before many of you were born. I can safely say, if you want the best ghetto burger in all of LA (and as most of you know, I never use the “B” word), come to Mom’s. Why? Is it because it’s better than The Master Burger, better than The Stand, Three Bears, B&R, Art’s Art of Burger, Yanakis and Big Burger?

No. It’s because Mom’s burgers got soul. How do I know? It’s in the name, stupid! “Soul cheese burger”. But wait, it gets better. What makes it soulful? It’s not the old school R&B music blaring in and out of the kitchen (shack), not the popular strawberry drink, not the clientele with their ‘95 Suburban on double dubs, not even the chess set on the picnic tables. It’s the grilled egg. Grilled eggs give burgers soul. Hear that.

And the Chronic burger? Soul with bacon. Hells yes I love this place. The burgers are perfectly constructed within the confines of Wonder Bread buns, contain 1/4 to 1/3 lb hand formed patties pressed daily, seasoned with cracklin’ fresh black pepper. And if you got soul, the whole schbang will be topped with a mini egg & cheese omelette. The beef’s always wonderfully charred, not too dry, not too juicy, not too fatty and best of all, Mom’s does not rely on trickery or schtick: no quad super sized patties, no hot links or other shenanigans topping the perfect standard.

So(ul)-powerfully Soul-tastic and only in Compton.

Nota Bene: always remember to call in your burger first. No, not because I’m worried about your safety in Compton; I’m not like the other bloggers. It just takes a bit that’s all. And I know how y’all hate to wait.

T: (310) 632-6622

I would not call myself a religious man. Yet sometimes The Man touches me. Every time Smetana’s tone poem, The Mouldau (Vltava), is played – usually the Leonard Bernstein issue – shiver slivers down my spine. When Grant Achatz was interviewed by Mr. Ruhlman at the Steppenwolf Chicago (March ’07) and spoke of his epiphanous “stage” at El Bulli, same shiver…

Prelude: sometimes, you know you shouldn’t eat too loudly, e.g. at the movie theatre, don’t crunch down on Skittles too hard; at the Met. don’t chew gum with voracity. I was similarly forced me to consume Bludso’s brilliant barbecue in silence this July: Lang Lang had just ponced on first few bars of Tchaikovsky’s No. 1 and I was trying, with all my might, not to boldly masticate the crunchy cartilage of the charry, smoky rib tips which I’d brought all the way from Compton earlier that evening.

And then The Man touched me. Twice. or, should I say simultaneously? For both the long awaited Lang Lang concerto (I first made attempt to catch him back in ’05, under CSO’s Borenboim), and the porky rib juices mixed as I silently chewed.

Beyond the Judith Martin-esque advice, this is what everyone needs to know: The Bludso clan stuffs their own links during “beer nights”. Not just links, three kinds of links: beef, pork and chicken. My fave: the poulty links, smoked quickly in the Old Hickory, with barely a hint of sage.. It’s almost… Asian with its fine grind and spices. Everything is home made except for the white bread/buns. This goes for the sauce, sames goes for the sides. I’m not even going to talk about the sides here. All I care about is the protein portion of the store front rib shack. And what cue this is! Beef brisket smoked with apple / hickory and sometime oak, for 13-15 hours. Pork and beef ribs smoked for 3.5-4 hours. Them pork shoulders used in the pulled pork? Smoked in iron drums, perfect texture with just enough chew, no need for sauce. Have you chased rib tips like I have? All through out Compton and vicinities? This joint is it. Charred to perfection, chopped to contain just pertinent amounts of cartilage, yet still meaty. It is lovely.

While Mr. Kevin Bludso previously enjoyed the likes of Sonny Bryan’s in Dallas and Vergies in Houstons (a friend), since opening in April, he hardly gets to taste of his own Q. Often, instead of ribs, he wants fried chicken when he roots for his fave team, the Cowboys, on Sundays. That said, his customers seem to enjoy the ribs the most, followed by the beyond moist brisket (which I suspect may be finished off by foiling), then rib tips.

Want to be touched by Hermes, god of meat and feast? Hit up Bludso’s, one of the gems along Alonda Blvd, the gastro-highway of Compton*

* Honey’s Kettle and Mom’s Burger, 2 of my dietary mainstays, are all within foodcrawl distance.

Bludso’s Menu